Cruising in North Carolina, home of the University of North Carolina Tar Heels! Oh my!

Friday night drinks and dinner at the Coral Bay Beach Club where Louis and Diane are members. Louis and Diane on left, from the boat Bella Luna; Linda and Charlie, Jim and Lisa from the boat Kismet. A good time with friends!

Above: April 29 - Frank and Mimi (on left in photo) came to the home of Diane and Louis our Looper friends (Louis in center) while we were in the Morehead City area. Mimi and Frank came to dinner bearing welcome gifts for Charlie and I: blonde brownies and Tar Heels insulator drink holders from the University of North Carolina. Yeah, thanks guys, especially the blue drink holders.

Since the last blog, dated April 27, Freedom’s Turn has traveled 190 miles on North Carolina’s Intracoastal Waterway. From Southport Marina in Southport, NC to Beach House Marina in Surf City on Top Sail Island, then to a private marina in Morehead City, then on to Oriental City Marina and to finally to Belhaven Waterway Marina in Belhaven, where we arrived yesterday, May 6 at noon.

That morning, we left the small, sleepy, fishing village port of Oriental at 6:30 a.m.

(Click on the photos to zoom in. Go to the page back arrow to resume)The red dot on the map above just north of Wrightsville Beach is Top Sail.

Below, follow our ICW route indicated by the dotted line. At this writing, we are in Belhaven. We will continue following the ICW line to Elizabeth City when we get there in a few days, choosing to go through the Dismal Swamp just off the map to the north. One has a choice to do that or go up to Coinjock, both on the ICW.

We left the port of Oriental traveling with Sandy and Jim and their boat “Footloose,” a 41 foot American Tug. Leaving Oriental at NC MM 183, our destination was to go to Belhaven located at NC MM 135; a distance of 48 miles. Temperature was 62 degrees at 6 a.m. It reached low 80’s with a 60 % chance of rain. Winds began at 15 mph out of the SSW increasing to 20-25 mph by mid afternoon. We needed to get tied up and tucked in before the weather was supposed to get ugly.

Both boats cleared Pamlico Sound at 11:30 AM with a bit of a chop and following seas but very doable. We beat the predicted increase in winds that came with much gusto by mid-afternoon. Our friends on ‘Footloose’ went on to another marina four miles further up the waterway called Dowry Creek. Earlier in the week we made a reservation in Belhaven and had our mail sent there. Today we discovered many boats we know are at the other place here, Dowry Creek Marina. Never-the-less, Linda was excited to finally get to open her birthday cards today that were waiting for her!

We got off our boat to explore the small town of Belhaven and Charlie turned on his own natural radar for an ice cream cone place and a gift shop for me. (We found both) After a nap and later drinks, cheese and crackers, enjoyed in the marina’s pretty gazebo on the water and talking with a boater couple from Long Island, (cruising is tough!) we retired to the boat with a simple meal of taco salad and blonde brownies. Charlie and I shared the computer; I began blog writing and he studied the next day’s weather. An episode of CSI New York and off to sleep.

We are still here in Belhaven today, May 7 waiting for better weather tomorrow to go up to Elizabeth City. I noticed a scale in the women’s bathroom yesterday and as I write this in the early am I will get my courage up to weigh myself, not having weighed since Key Largo in January. Then I’ll sneek Charlie in to weigh himself. I may or may not announce the results at the end of this blog.

Note the two large sounds in the third photo above.

During our Intracoastal Waterway journey of about 710 miles from the northern Florida coast where it begins to Norfolk, Virginia, where it ends( also the beginning of the Chesapeake Bay) we are traveling in fairly protected waters except for two of these large sounds in North Carolina we have to cross; today we crossed Pamlico Sound then in two cruising days north of here we will cross the Albemarle Sound.

These sounds are formed by the Outer Banks of North Carolina. These Outer Banks provide significant barriers from the ocean. The two or three inlets into the sounds allow water coming into the sound and then into the rivers causing a raise the water level as much as an additional three feet, from wind, but not tide.

Conversely, winds can pull the water back out of the rivers and then out of the sounds. This sudden rush of waters (over a day or so) out can create serious low water levels especially in a boat slip (boat can start with four feet of depth, then as the waters move out, the boat lays on the bottom waiting for a water rise again) Its all about the wind direction and speed.
These vast sounds looked like small seas to us. And even though these sounds look very tiny on a road map, they take us most of one day for our slow moving trawler to cross.

Heading to Top Sail, NC

On April 27 Freedom’s Turn left Southport and traveled about 60 miles to Beach House Marina located in Surf City on Top Sail Island, a barrier island between the ICW and the ocean on our starboard side. This island is about 20 miles north of Wrightsville Beach.

In the 1700s, the island was given the name Top Sail by merchant sailors who were frequently attacked by pirates hiding their ships in the small channels behind the dunes here. The merchant ships soon learned to keep a lookout for the topsails showing above the dunes. ( It sure was a different life back then!)

Charlie and I walk out on the main pier at Top Sail Beach to watch all the folks fishing. What would their day be without the water?

View from the pier. We had a pleasant afternoon and evening there.

On the way to Top Sail, we cruised past several acres of remote looking land on both sides of the ICW. (photo below)

Here the eastern side of the ICW comes close to the ocean with thin strands of land so that we could see the ocean’s breakers on our starboard. The area is known as Camp Le June, a Marine training area and is completely restricted to anyone except the Marines.

Among the deserted looking land, there are many old, deserted military vehicles as pictured here where the marines conduct their target practice. As we cruised by, we heard shots being fired in the far distance. Sometimes, we were told, this area including the waterway can be closed for military drills so it is always good to check ahead, which we did.

After Top Sail, heading towards Morehead City

Freedom’s Turn headed up the ICW leaving Top Sail for MM 205; Morehead City and Beaufort, North Carolina. It would be a one day, 55 mile run from Top Sail.

We passed ICW buoys with Osprey nests built on top. The red triangle seen below indicates the side of channel closest to lthe mainland. We follow them on our port side going north. We see green square buoys on our starboard indicating the sea side of the channel. The exception to this is if we are leaving the ICW to go on a river to a marina. Where the diversion takes place, the buoys change to red on the right(red right return rule) and green on our left as we leave the ICW.

I got a great close-up shot when Charlie steered the boat over nearer. I could sense we were intruding.

And we passed commercial shrimp boats.

Freedom’s Turn passed the Cape Fear River where you turn off the ICW to go to Wilmington, NC. We thought of our Looper friends Bud and Muriel and daughter Shelley from the boat ‘Sunshine’ who just completed their Great Loop adventure by arriving at their home port of Wilmington City Docks a few days earlier. Finishing the loop is commonly known among us as “Crossing your wake.” Two weeks ago week we visited with them along with Bill and Irene from the boat ‘Blue Max’ while we were all in Charleston, SC and so we knew they were doing good. Blue Max is heading to their home port in New York. Congratulations to ‘Sunshine’!

April 28-May 2 Morehead City Goin' Ashore!

Morehead City has a sister city named Beaufort, (pronounced Booooooo fert, where as Beaufort, South Carolina is pronounced Buuuuuuuu fert). This area is a commercial and sportfishing center, with a big charter fleet that heads out into the open Atlantic year round. Fishing for tuna is a big here. The tuna migrate from the colder winter waters of the North to the coastal waters of the Outer Banks.

There are two international ports in North Carolina, Wilmington and Morehead City. Consequently Morehead City is a port of entry for customs inspection. Any type of marine services are plentiful here as well.

The Beaufort here in North Carolina is named for Henry Somerset, Duke of Beaufort, England, and was surveyed in 1713 while Queen Anne was still on the throne. Thus the ‘Queen Anne’ style of furnishings and architecture, etc., came to be in U.S.history. The town has a wonderful board walk and an outstanding maritime museum, as we would later see.

We were very excited as we came into view of Morehead City to reunite with some other ‘Looper’ friends. We tied up in a slip in the private marina and home to the boat ‘Bella Luna’ and our friends Louis and Diane, who just recently completed their Great Loop as well. We had been graciously be invited to stop for a visit with them at their beach home on the ICW in the nearby city of Atlantic Beach on Bogue Banks Island.

Bogue Banks is a barrier island of the Outer Banks and is 18 miles long. There are separate communities on this island each with their own zipcode. Besides the well known city of Atlantic Beach, Emerald Isle is another popular spot where Charlie's North Carolinian cousins Larry and Linda go every year. We regret just missed seeing them here actually.

While in North Carolina, we chose not to go out to the Outer Banks. On another visit we will want to go to places like Kitty Hawk, where the Wright Brothers first flew an airplane. Getting out there is one thing, getting back is another with the weather predicting. A faster boat going in and out is more favorable here by many, however several have taken the extra week to explore and have loved the Outer Banks. Our priority was to visit Louis and Diane.

Above, Louis and Charlie getting together for a nice long talk on Louis and Diane's lovely back deck overlooking the Intracoastal Waterway.

Louis and Diane also own a home on a lake in Leasburg, North Carolina. They are in the process of going back and forth to both homes in the process of getting settled yet they generously offered to put us up at the beach house with them.

Jim and Lisa from ‘Kismet’ arrived a few days later and stayed at the beach house also with us all. We had a wonderful re-union complete with getting tours of the area, including the historic Beaufort, walks on the local beaches, eating in their favorite restaurants, (Linda had to seek out the local shrimp and grits) and Louis and Diane took us for a special night eating dinner at the Coral Bay Beach Club where they are members. (see big top photo)

Charlie and I have grown very accustomed to living in the smallness of our boat. But during our time ashore as guests of Louis and Diane, it was surprising how comforting it was to able to walk with immovable earth under our feet thoughtfully again for days on end! Being guests in their home meant eating delicious meals, even artfully prepared and eaten at an unmoving table!

Sleeping in a real bed meant there was no water current moving us to and fro, nor were there any sounds of gurgling water to wake us up. And taking hot showers without taking our big bags of shower stuff sometimes a block away to the facilities was divine. We have a nice shower aboard Freedom's Turn but for this trip, it is filled to the brim with extra provisions.

I especially enjoyed a used book store where I bought enough books for my spring and summer reading supply and the store even sent a new book to my mother that I selected for her Mother’s Day gift.

Louis and Diane buy baby clams and plant them in their sand, thus harvesting their own clams!

Below, Charlie and Louis finishing their clam hunt with loads of clams for our happy hour.

Fresh, steamed clams - a delight!

The clams were just the appetizer! Later, friends Mimi and Frank came over for the main course; a low country shrimp boil. (see the first photo again and the very last photo)

A favorite lunch stop for Louis and Diane; El's Drive-In Restaurant featuring shrimpburgers. The waitresses actually come out to your car! The local seagulls (different from our Michigan ones) liked to stop by for handouts of French fries from Diane. Photo taken from the car window.

We will work for food, we said. Lisa and I helped Diane pot plants and Jim and Charlie helped Louis by pulling out and moving a palm tree. (below)

During our visit, Diane took Lisa and I for a walk on the the beach at Ft. Macon where a civil war battle was fought and to the beach at the Coral Bay Club for lovely beach walks. We collected shells at both places. It was a special time with special friends.

Louis took Charlie and Jim to the Maritime Museum in nearby Beaufort. Through displays, they learned about the history of local boat building and fishing as well as aspects of modern commercial fishing; from modern boat building to net making, etc.

In 1996 a shipwreck was discovered in the harbor in Beaufort that experts claim to be Blackbeard's Queen Anne's Revenge. A display of Blackbeard, his ship and the history has become a major tourist attraction at the Maritime Museum. This excavation was the subject of an episode of the PBS series "Secrets of the Dead."

The guys saw two artifacts from Blackbeard’s ship; pieces of platters and plates and cannon balls. They also saw displays about boat building and fishing throughout history in the Mid-Atlantic area of United States. They learned about the aspects of commercial fishing from modern boat building to net making, etc.

About Blackbeard

Blackbeard is a very famous pirate and since we were in his old stomping grounds, I had to read more about him so I looked him up on the internet at Wikipedia, Feb. 25, 2008.

The information I gathered lists his birth name as either Edward Teach or Thatch and was born in Bristol, England near 1680. Blackbeard was a notorious English pirate in the Caribean Sea and western Atlantic during the early 18th century, a period referred to as the Golden Age of piracy.

Eighteenth Century drawings and engravings of Blackbeard show him with the smoking ends of his long, black pigtails and black beard where he lit cannon fuses with his hair and kept several pistols in his bandoliers.

The bulk of Blackbeard’s career as a pirate was only from 1717 until 1718 yet he has been the subject of books, movies, and documentaries. His alligence was to no one. He would plunder merchant ships, forcing them to allow his crew to board their ship. The pirates would seize all of the valuables, food, liquor, and weapons. Despite his ferocious reputation, there are no verified accounts of him actually killing anyone. He deliberately cultivated his barbaric reputation, and so could prevail by terror alone.

Blackbeard was prone to burying treasure. He would allegedly take a treasure chest ashore with one sailor in a small boat, and return alone. The sailor's corpse was said to lie atop the chest in the excavation to discourage the squeamish from continuing the treasure hunt. In times as difficult as the American revolution, people commonly dug along the beaches in search of hidden treasure.

Blackbear 's chief claim to fame is his blockade of Charleston, South Carolina. In approximately late May 1718, Blackbeard entered the mouth of Charleston harbour with the Queen Anne's Revenge and three lighter vessels. He plundered five merchant freighters attempting to enter or leave the port. No other vessels could transit the harbour for fear of encountering the pirate squadron. Blackbeard was successful in his mission.

Later Blackbeard was killed in a battle near Bath, NC by British Lieutenant Maynard, who shot him and then cut off Blackbeard’s head and diplayed the head on Lieutenant Maynard's bow of his ship. Things were really different in those days...

Blackbeard was thought to have fourteen "wives" throughout his life!

But was he ever home for supper?

Sunday, May 3 Oriental City Marina Traveling with Kismet

Oriental is a small town of 1,000 and its claim to fame is the Sailing Capital of North Carolina.

There are two turning off points to Oriental City Matrina; one is older and closer to the main hub of the marina action and the other is a new section with less protection from the the wind. The harbormaster put us and Kismet in the newer section for the first night only then he moved us after Charlie persuaded him to do so for the following two nights.

I was glad to move because it was too far to walk to the bathroom and showers in the newer part and because of the fact thet there were signs saying “beware of snakes” along the desinated pathways leading to the facilities. Sure enough, Charlie and I saw a snake slithering by our sandeled feet! (Later we found out it was a water moccasian also know as a cotton mouth-poisonous!) We stayed the third night because we were waiting to get a screen repair back. We appreciated the clean showers and laundry room and ate at great restaurant having super hamburgers and onion rings named M &M’s.

Kismet left a day ahead of us while we waited for our screen to come back. We hope to see them again in the Chesapeake Bay in about a week. On to Belhaven. Where we began this blog.

We"ll sign off for now with a picture of a Low Country Shrimp Boil below. Sampling the local cuisine along the trip ((and receiving the local hospitality) has been wonderful!

By the way, Charlie stayed the same weight as in January and I had gained five. No more shrimp and grits (for a while)

Diane's Low Country Shrimp Boil with Old Bay seasoning and has kielbasa, corn, shrimp
and new potatoes.

Thank you Diane and Louis! We will never forget you.

By the way, we have just noticed that our Michigan State burgee flag which flies at the top of our radar arch, has fallen apart... just like our basketball team did. Oh my!

Sincerely,

Linda and Charlie