Tuesday, April 21, 2009

A look at Georgia's Intracoastal Waterway



Freedom’s Turn arrived at Two Way Fish Camp Marina on the Altamaha River just north of Brunswick, Georgia on April 12, Easter Day. Due to torrential rains coming on April 13-14, she would rest one extra day on top of the two day planned stay.
The swollen rivers and creeks produced very fast currents surrounding our marina and the Intracoastal Waterway in the area. Even within the slips in the marina, there was a current running 2-3 knots.
Debris collected everywhere. There is actually a crane in this photo!
Can you find it?
Charlie and I had visions of the flood of Grafton back in September along the Illinois River and shuttered to think we might be delayed again to the extent again of 12 days! only one extra day was needed, to our relief.

This occurrence was a normal thing to happen in this parts, according to a group of local fishermen who Charlie spoke to as we where preparing to leave at some point. The rivers and creeks that run out into the ICW in this area are responsible for nearly 1/3 of all of Georgia’s water drainage out to the sea. Naturally after heavy rains the abundant water moves powerfully and swiftly down to sea level and out to drain.

We had planned going to a marina in Savannah on the 14th however we changed our plan and rented a car and drove to the city instead. We picked the car up in Brunswick the night before we needed it and ate at a Golden Corral on our way home. The reason for mentioning this restaurant was the remarkable thing we saw in the restaurant. And I did not have my camera!
Inside the main entrance, there was a small table set for what appeared to be for one person. The table had a white tablecloth and a small U.S. flag was placed on the table top next to the plate; in honor of our country. There was red ribbon in a vase symbolizing the blood shed from war. Inside a single bud vase, one red rose lay on its side symbolizing the love of this missing military person fighting for our freedom. There was a small plate with salt sprinkled on it for tears, a lemon on it for the bitterness; the bitterness of war. And a down- turned glass for not knowing when this person (soldier) would be coming home to eat there.
What a strong statement demonstrating the love, honor and respect of those serving our country. We felt very moved after reading the sign and by the sight.

Darien, Georgia April 14, 9:00 a.m.
Along the way to Savannah, we stopped at the village of Darien because we spotted the town's barber shop. Charlie wanted to get a much over- due hair cut. There was one main downtown street lined with quaint shops and businesses that looked like the town was living in the past. This mural painting above was in the same building as the town's barber shop. It depicted the lumber industry here years ago and made an interesting statement about Darien's past. Today, shrimp is the area's main business, we were told by a long time resident.

I explored a side street while Charlie got his hair cut. I took a photo of vultures, up close and personal. They were the size of hen turkeys! On the same street further down, there was a colorful and fun looking restaurant called the Purple Pickle.




Savannah, Georgia April 14 10:30 a.m.

We took the advice from our fellow boaters and Charlie’s Georgian cousin Carol Thomas and took the trolley car in the city for a delightful 1.5 hour tour of the heart of Savannah’s historical district. For $25 apiece, it proved to be a wonderful way to get an overview of this beautiful, Southern city.
During our visit, Charlie and I took in all we could of Savannah’s abundant azaleas, large expansive live oaks draped with Spanish moss; beautifully preserved, stately old homes complete with ornate wrought iron gates and fences and lush flower gardens. Spring was in its glory with its fresh, sweet smell, I said to Charlie.

Founded in 1733 by British General James Oglethorpe, Savannah was the first city in the British colony of Georgia. General Oglethorpe is credited with the ingenious layout of the city. There are 23 public squares here, each centered within city blocks placed in a symmetrical grid. There are main streets paralleling the grids that end at the Savannah River.
Each square has a monument and statue of a statesman or soldier relating to both the Revolutionary and Civil Wars as well as detailed information to give the visitors. Below, Charlie stands in front of the statue of Sergeant William Jasper; a United States soldier honored here as a famous Revolutionary War Hero for rescuing prisoners of war from the British and bravely replacing the flag while under heavy enemy fire. Sergeant Jasper was mortally wounded a few hundred yards from this site.

This historical city is famous for many movies being filmed here including the Mercer House (1871) in Monterey Square where the movie “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” was filmed. The house was built by the grandfather of Savannahian songwriter Johnny Mercer but no Mercer ever lived here. Jim Williams, the main character in the movie, owned and lived in this house until his death in 1990.

The Mercer House


Chippewa Square (above) is the location for the scene where Tom Hanks as “Forrest Gump” sat in a park on a bench and ate candy out of his box of chocolates (‘life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get”) Just for the movie, a bench was placed in front of this statue of Major Jacob Jennings Brown for Tom Hanks. This photo is borrowed from my book 'Savannah Squares.' by Robert J. Hill II My photo did not turn out.


Charlie and I ate our lunch in a tea shop named Gryphons then walked around and inside this beautiful Catholic Cathedral of John the Baptist, founded in 1876. Among the breathtaking views, we noted the magnificent hand stenciled borders on the walls. One of the side altars still displayed its lovely Easter flowers.
This city is one we want to come back to someday.




After a great day in Savannah, which, by the way, the rain held off during our 5 hour visit, we dropped our rental car off back in Brunswick in a heavy down pour. Another passing through Darien and we were “home’ again on our boat to settle in and prepare to leave Two Way Fish Camp the next day. More of the marshy waters of the Intracoastal. We appreciated the hospitality of the marina here and even had a great hamburger at their restaurant named Mud Cat Charlie’s. Getting out of the slip the next morning took two extra men helping with the lines due to the current. This marina would be very doable during most days we would guess; however we were glad we did not get on the outside dock right on the river.


Our last night in Georgia, Freedom’s Turn slowed to a stop and drifted on the waters of an unmarked channel at mile marker 612 getting ready for her anchorage. It was near 5 p.m.
In his book, "Anchorages Along the Intracoastal," Skipper Bob names this little no name creek "Birthday Creek." It was a good anchorage with good holding.
This night became one of those great anchorage nights that every boater cherishes.
Being truly alone from the outside world, our minds emptied the the day’s details from our thoughts and we truly relaxed. The big open sky with its panoramic view was our visual backdrop as we enjoyed a happy hour filled to the brim with a oneness of nature and the scents of a new spring. We saw the new green marsh grasses coming through the mucky soil. From our chairs on the upper cockpit, we heard only the chirping of the spring insects. (And the slight shift of ice in our cooler below). Nature quiet is divine.
A beautiful sunset came and it was icing on the cake. But soon the no-see-ums came out like bitter tasting pepper on our sweet 'cake' so we went in for dinner, closed up the ship tight, and with our little fans on us, slept just fine to a gentle rocking side to side.
To quote Henry David Thoreau:
“To be calm to be serene – there is the calmness of the lake when there is not a breath of wind – there is the calmness of a stagnant ditch. So it is with us. Sometimes we are clarified & calmed healthily as we never were before in our lives – not by an opiate – but by some unconscious obedience to the all–just laws – so that we become like a still lake of purest crystal and without an effort our depths are revealed to ourselves. All the world goes by us & is reflected in our deeps. Such clarity! Obtained by such pure means! By simple living – by honestly of purpose – we live and rejoice.”

22 June, Journal 3:274-75
The next day would be Hilton Head Harbor Marina in South Carolina. Freedom’s Turn would be taking us to another state again. At this anchorage, on April 15, she had safely taken us 3,857 miles in 252 days.
We were living our best life that anchorage night. And so be it.
Sincerely,
Linda and Charlie