More highlights from the Carolinas

On South Carolina ICW along the way, we see examples of what can happen to boats at low tides. There has been extreme changes in the tides at more unpredictable times here lately due to the full moon affecting the tidal currents differently. Charlie and I have been meaning to read more about this topic at some point to further our understanding. Somehow, this natural phenomenon adds to an increase in more sand drifting into channels that creates new and hidden shoals below the waters.


Charlie is relying on all the information he can get his hands on to know where to watch out for. Salty Southeast Cruisers Net on the internet gives him constant updates. And he communicates with many boaters on the great loop email web site. One thing we know for sure, always stay in the marked channel.

Many boats are stored this way. Boat parking lots Linda calls them.

SOUTHPORT, NORTH CAROLINA

Today is Monday, April 27. As we write this blog entry, Freedom’s Turn just left the Southport Marina in Southport, North Carolina, where we a lovely, one night stay. This morning, we reunited with our fellow loopers, Kay and Robert from the boat C-Life.

Robert even wore his MSU shirt we gave him during football season last fall. He and another friend Louis patiently put up with us watching our MSU football while we all ate some Saturday meals together so we bought them appreciation shirts when we were home in October. He supported MSU in the NCAA tournament towards the end until his son, a Tar Heels fan, got on him so he had to switch his allegiance.

Kay and Robert live in Southport next to where we stayed in the marina. They are lucky to be able to live on a bay directly off the Intracoastal and can keep their boat year round in a slip right across the street from their home!

The four of us enjoyed a delicious breakfast (above) in a favorite restaurant of theirs named P.J.s. The four of us celebrated C-Life’s completion of the Great Loop which happened on April 15 at 4:55 p.m. I was told. Congratulations are in order for the couple that traveled close to 6,500 miles in close to eleven months.

The restaurant had college pennants all around and when we found the Michigan State one, we felt right at home.

Robert and Kay are part of a circle of dear friends we have made on the Great Loop. We left Southport after breakfast and did not say good-by but 'see you down the road (or water) somewhere.'The frineds you make while on the Great Loop are truly the best part.

Hurray! Kay spotted an alligator in the basin in front of their home so Charlie and Robert took pictures of it.

We will stop tonight near Top Sail, North Carolina and either anchor out or grab a marina called Beach House. Tomorrow we look forward to giving Freedom’s Turn a rest in Morehead City while we visit with other dear looper friends of ours who have also completed the Great Loop trip recently; Diane and Louis Wade from the boat ‘Bella Luna.’

We will now go back to the past week to fill in some of our ports of call.

CHARLESTON April 21-22

We arrived in Charleston late in the day on Tuesday, April 21 coming from Beaufort. Lining the ICW at Charleston were many beautiful old homes.005


The following two paragraphs were taken out of the book “Honey Let’s buy a Boat” written by Ron and Eva Stob.

“The American Revolution had its seed in early uprisings against the British in Charleston when in 1765 the townspeople, tired of the Queen Mother’s taxation, sent England’s ships bearing the official papers of taxation back to England. This was one of the first instances of rebellion in any of the 13 original English colonies.

The first shots of the Civil War were sent from Charleston against the U.S. at Fort Sumter. South Carolina was the first state to secede from the Union (1860), a major player in the establishment of the Confederacy in 1861, and one of the last to succumb to Union Forces. If any people deserve to the label, Rebel, it’s the Charlestonians.”

We arrived in Charleston late in the day on Tuesday, April 21 coming from Beaufort. Lining the ICW at Charleston were many beautiful old homes.

At the City Market, ladies were making and selling the famous Gullah baskets. Gullahs reflect a strong sense of family and community and African cultural traditions in language, food, art and music more here in the Southeast than any other part of the United States.

These homes below are in the historical district and are known as the Rainbow Houses, an early example of modern day townhouses. The unique color for each house has been kept. These houses were known in there early days as the houses of ill repute. On our Charleston carriage ride, our guide told us that the reason these homes were originally painted different colors was for the men to know which house their ‘lady’ lived in.

The historic homes were taxed many times by the number of running feet facing the street so the homes were built deep within the parcel of land with the front door on the side.

The majestic Customs House

Before we arrived at the Maritime Marina in downtown Charleston, we spotted a magnificent Navy boat. I got the binoculars and saw many people on the ship’s deck standing in a line, looking out on the water. There were smaller boats cruising around the big ship that looked like they were a part of something happening there.

A few hours later, at our boat slip, we saw the big Navy boat go by us! We learned later that the boat’s name was the U.S.S. Truxton and that we were witnessing its first time out in the harbor; taking the public on a little ride!

Our next stop was Georgetown.


GEORGETOWN, April 23-24

We were looking forward to visiting Georgetown again as we tied up on the floating dock at downtown Hazzard Marina.

In June of 2006, just before I retired from the Meridian Senior Center in Okemos, Charlie and I drove to our timeshare condo at Myrtle Beach for a week of R & R. We made a side trip to Georgetown. While we strolled down the street in the quaint downtown, (it looks like the town could have came from a Norman Rockwell painting)

I found a beautiful bracelet in an art shop that I loved the moment I saw it. We continued to look around. Charlie knew I loved that bracelet. Nothing was said and we left town.

Later that month on retirement day, he presented the bracelet to me, adding much joy to my special day.. It turned the day he said he wanted to go golfing later in the week, he went back to Georgetown (one hour one way) to get the bracelet!

While we we were both in Georgetown the first time, we had said to ourselves, “Someday soon we will be living our dream when we come back here on our boat!” And what a satisfied feeling we had to have made it back by boat.

Georgetown dates back to 1721 when it was declared a royal providence by Prince George of England who later became King George the 2nd. It is a living museum town of wide avenues and sleepy streets with historical homes everywhere. There is a wonderful city dock that runs along the back of the downtown shops where one can see a pretty view of the boats and water. Our marina lies south of this view. This harbor walk gave us a ‘glad we came back again feeling.’

When we took the historical district walking tour on our first visit, we discovered the Thomas Café and had a truly wonderful southern cooked lunch. On this trip, we had to go back to get Linda’s very favorite Southern meal to date again, which they cook at the Thomas Café like no other. (I have conducted taste tests with other places and they all have not held a candle to this place). Here it is: fried green tomatoes, shrimp and grits with a touch of ham and red pepper in rich, creamy gravy. Charlie was disappointed his favorite Seafood Jambalaya was not available anymore so he tried what I ordered.

If you really like something you eat I guess you are taking a chance when you find out what is really in it. So I asked what was in the gravy (after I ate it.) You won’t want to eat this when we tell you! The gravy is mostly half and half cream with ham juice and butter) with the red pepper and other flavors added and it is soo good. We gave our compliments to the cook and hope to someday come back here to eat it again! Once every few years won’t hurt. The day was all about Linda because after lunch I got my hair cut and a new pair of shoes. I guess you could say that Georgetown is my kind of town.

The wonderful Thomas Cafe. It even has green and white checked table cloths.

This is a wonderful city dock that runs along the back of the downtown shops where one can see a pretty view of the boats and water. Our marina lies south of this view. This harbor walk gave us a ‘glad we came back again feeling.’There is a wonderful city dock that runs along the back of the downtown shops where one can see a pretty view of the boats and water. Our marina lies south of this view. This harbor walk gave us a ‘glad we came back again feeling.’

MYRTLE BEACH April 25

From Georgetown, our next stop was to be North Myrtle Beach, our own family’s long time favorite summer vacation place driving all the way from Michigan. This time though, it was going to be a unique visit for us, coming the first time on our boat!

Unfortunately a large fire broke out in the area a few days earlier west and north of the marina we were to stay at. The Coast guard closed the ICW for several miles surrounding the area the day we were supposed to arrive so we stayed an extra day in Georgetown and left one day later, April 25 for Myrtle Beech. We stayed only one day at Myrtle Beach where we did not see any of the damage done but we learned that 19,600 acres burned and 2,500 residents evacuated. The waterway stopped the fire from spreading south of the ICW towards the ocean. We did smell a burnt smell in the air so we left the next day. We took in a great variety show at the Alabama Theatre called “One” before we left.

The next photos give a few of the sights we saw along the way along the waterway from Georgetown to Myrtle Beach known as the Waccamaw River. Enjoy!

A two mile stretch off the ICW on the Prince River. We were on the lookout for alligators but no such luck

It was a beautiful diversion. A 'river less traveled' feeling. Quiet and peaceful as Linda sat on the bow while Charlie took off the auto pilot and enjoyed a gentle steering. Spring was everywhere.

An osprey nest. Artfully done.

A Saturday fishing time

Coming into the shores of Myrtle Beach, of course.

Beautiful homes that looked like estates! Who takes care of this home?

Coming into Barefoot Landing, Myrtle Beach from the water view.

The next day, leaving South Caroina on the ICW known as the Little River. North Carolina here we come.

Sincerely,

Linda and Charlie

Coastal South Carolina: Hilton Head Island and Beaufort

On April 16 Freedom’s Turn left her cozy anchorage at Birthday Creek, just off Georgia’s Intracoastal Waterway Mile Marker 612. On a road map, this spot is near Tybee Island just outside of Savannah. Like we said in the last blog, Birthday Creek was a great anchorage for our one night. Before we left there, Captain Charlie had timed the departure for 10 a.m. the next morning. This is quite a late time for a departure; 7-8 am is more like it.

But timing was everything in order to reach areas like Florida’s Passage (normally shallow) and Hell Gate (a passage through two islands with lots of currents depending on the winds). By leaving at 10 a.m., we could go through those areas on the high side of the rising tides. Tides in these parts vary as much as 8-9 feet. (Would you like to go to sleep one night knowing you were going to go through an area on your boat the next morning named Hell Gate?)

Winds that morning were gusting out of the ENE at 20 knots so the Captain wanted to cover all bases. Turned out a little bumpy but not bad at all. (The Captain is getting pretty good at calculating the best times to go through an area.) By late morning we settled down in at the upper helm with more coffee and thoughts about getting to Hilton Head Island. The sun felt great and the temperature was 70 degrees.

We were at MM 594.8, seven miles from Savannah, (where we had visited by car earlier in the week,) when Charlie looked up from his guidebook and announced that the pretty, winding river we were passing was named “Moon River” and that it is the actual river inspiring the popular song with the same title. My thoughts went right back to the senior citizen exercise class I used to teach where we stretched and lifted weights to many of the wonderful old songs from the past. What a different life I am living right now.

We reached our destination at 5:00 pm, secured the lines, and had a drink and a simple supper onboard.

Re-visiting Hilton Head Island, South Carolina April 16-19

April 16 - Passing the Hilton Head harbor where the PGA Heritage Golf Tournament was being played at the time. The green canopies on far right are near holes 17 and 18. See the blimp; it is way at the top.


We were told that boats can anchor close to the 17th and 18th greens. It looked really crowded so we dismissed that idea. And the marina next to the golf course, Harbortown Marina, had a waiting list only at the special price of $10 a running foot per night! We have a 39 foot boat! We stayed on our boat at Hilton Head Marina for two nights and then moved to Skull Creek Marina. Prices were normal for this part of our trip- $1.50/$1.75 p er foot. At Hilton Head Marina, we were put on a public dock where the locals hang out and this dock was also used for fishing charters so we changed marinas; we cared not to stay.

This visit was going to be our second time at the island. Charlie and I and our daughter Christa first drove to Hilton Head Island in early October of 2007. We attended a beautiful beach wedding of Charlie’s niece Mackenzie and her groom, Peter. A bunch of the Thomas family had made it as well.

The mother of the bride, Charlie’s first cousin Becky, and her husband Bill, live in Hilton Head Plantation on Hilton Head Island. We informed them weeks ago of our upcoming visit by boat. Plans were made to be together for the weekend along with Charlie’s other cousin, Monte, and his wife Carol, who drove down from Athens, Georgia, a five hour trip. A good time was had by all.

We all get to together at least once a year with nearly 60 other relatives at the Thomas Family Reunion each July in Parkersburg, W.VA. Charlie has a great family and we always look forward to seeing the clan each year. The reunion actually lasts three full days; chock full of activities for all ages. Our grown daughters have missed only a few reunions since they began coming in their strollers. They still make the effort to go on their own. Since we will be cruising in Canada this July and not back home until mid-August, we regret that we will probably miss this year’s event; only about the third time in 38 years. It will be the 80th anniversary of the reunion. We’ll see what happens.

Charlie and I and Monte and Carol were lucky to see the sights by car with Bill and Becky driving us; someone else in control! We enjoyed some delicious seafood at a local restaurant named “The Sea Shack.” We had a wonderful time.It was fun to show family our boat!

It was a delight to see so much beautiful land with the abundant smells of spring and the sounds of birds, such a contrast to all the water! The weather was perfect for us; temperatures in the high 70’s. Interestingly enough, earlier that morning we looked up the current temperatures on the internet for our home in Okemos, MI (55 and sunny), in Cheboygan, MI, our home
marina near Mackinac Island, (57 and sunny) and in Hilton Island, S.C. (61 and sunny.)

Thomas family cousins and their spouses. after me, Carol, then Bill, Becky, then Monte, then Charlie. Monte and Becky are Thomas cousins, Carol and Bill are their spouses Lunch under the trees at Boathouse Restaurant, Hilton Head Island.

Shrimp Boats

Hilton Head Island is a year round resort island. This island is the largest barrier island on the Atlantic Coast. It has been developed into very exclusive areas including parcels of residential living areas known as plantations. These plantations are mostly gated communities with manicured lawns, their own golf courses, pools, and private social buildings and grounds.

Hilton Head Island, like all the islands along the Eastern Seaboard, is rich in early American history. The Island was founded by the British in the 17th century by William Hutton. Besides the many historic sites from Revolutionary and Civil Wars, the island’s history goes way back to the 1500s when the Spanish boats, laden with treasure from Florida and headed back home to Spain, were attacked and raided off the coast of Hilton Head by the French Navy. The stories of buried treasure not found still remain in the lore spoken of in the area.

The land on Hilton Head is lush with abundant flower gardens, and a rich variety of trees such as pecan, cedar, oak, and pine. The coastline has pretty beaches and not as built up with high rise condos like Myrtle Beach. Besides golf, and tourism, fishing is an important industry here; harvesting oysters and the shrimp industry play a major role in the local economy.

We left Hilton Head Island on Sunday, April 19 heading for the historic and romantic southern town of Beaufort, SC.

April 20-21 Discovering the city of Beaufort, South Carolina

Beaufort County is famous for its history as well as its reputation as a world-class resort destination. The coastline here is beautiful with intricate saltwater creeks and rivers that wind between sea islands (including Parris Island, a recruiting station for the U.S. Marines) Besides the resort islands, some islands are still uninhabited and on many of the secluded ones, the native language of Gullah, a combination of English and African can still be heard.

In the 1700s rice planting and production of indigo were the main crops. The marshlands were perfect for the rice fields. In the 1800s sea cotton, a long silky fiber, was the main crop and well sought after. Beaufort became one of the richest cities in the American Colonies.

The city of Beaufort (pronounced Buuuuufort) was a hotspot for both the Revolutionary and Civil Wars with the articles for the Confederacy drawn up there. The town was settled in 1711.

Charlie and I enjoyed a carriage ride tour pulled by one horse named Rocky and our tour guide Becky.

Many of the historic homes here have three stories. The bottom level was mostly open it its day and housed the slaves. The problem with that was that this coastal area is only a few feet above sea level and many times the slaves’ quarters were flooded from time to time. The middle story was used for entertaining and the top story was the family’s living quarters.

On our tour, we learned interesting facts from our guide, Bonnie. She talked about the documented history of the homes and area. Bonnie also entertained us with stories carried down to add to the history to bring the lore to the story. Some tales are believed to be true but can’t be always be proven to be true, she said. For example, the origin of the sayings you are about to read, our guide told us, as far as she knows, have been said to be true.

Colonial kitchens were generally detached from the houses because of the threat of fire. The slaves that cooked would prepare the meals and walk it to the house as seen below.

The kitchen is the building on the left, to the rear of the main house, in the photo above. In order for the family not to worry that the slaves would eat the food before it got to the house, they instructed the slaves to whistle as they walked to the house with the food. The dogs would come and bark when they heard the whistling. The slaves would ward them off by giving them little bits of fried corn dough and say to the dogs, “Hush puppy, hush.”

South Carolina was the first state to secede from the Union just before the Civil War broke out on Sullivans Island at Fort Sumter near Charleston. The house where the formal action took place is here in Beaufort. (above) It is the Milton Maxey House, commonly known as the “Secession House, and was” built in 1813 with a foundation below it known to have been built in1743.

Houses were built with two staircases in the front, one for the men to walk up with their dirty boots and one for the ladies to use to keep their dresses clean. Besides, if an unmarried man followed an unmarried woman up the same staircase and saw any part of here ankles, he would be expected to consider proposing to her.

The flat chimney tops were crumbing due to the extreme weather thus the design was changed from flat to arched(below.) Note the twin staircases as well. (Below)

Throughout the tour, we were told more about the origin of some famous sayings. Such as the hanging Spanish moss everyone sees on the live oaks. Colonists used to stuff their mattress with this moss not knowing about the chiggers in the moss. Thus the saying “Don’t let the bed bugs bite.”

Old churches tell so much to the visitors about a town’s history, both political and religious. St. Helena’s Episcopal Church here in Beaufort was fascinating.

This church spans the time from before the Revolution when everyone was loyal to the queen, and British soldiers and families comprised the church. St Helena’s was established in 1712 when it was still an Anglican Church, the Church of England. Among the dead buried in the church yard (above) are two officers from the British Revolution. (Below)

Here is another interesting saying for you. Upon death, even though one was pronounced dead, sometimes they were actually in a coma instead; the plague, for example could make a person comatose. Some people were buried with a string on their finger and the string brought up through the grave with a bell on it, the hole giving oxygen air to the person and if the person came to, could ring the bell. Thus “Saved by the bell” and “Dead Ringer” came to be.

Many of the old homes have the front door and the back door directly aligned with each other connected by a central hallway. These houses were referred as “shotgun” houses making it easy to shoot someone if needing to catch someone breaking into your house.

Another fact about the homes was regarding the ceilings of the front porches. They were painted light blue. It was believed that wasps would not build their nests on a blue ceiling because they would think it was the sky.

Most of these old homes within the residential blocks surrounding the downtown were currently being lived in yet looked remarkably kept as they must have looked in their era. That is because if you own a house in the historical district you must abide by the 300 page code book to keep everything as close to being historically correct as well as have the ways and means to afford the upkeep. On top of that, you have to go before a board of regulators before anything is changed. Just on the outside, of course.

The homes were taxed by the square footage of a house one year and by the number of windows the following year. Many houses were built with separate buildings beside the house that were not taxed and windows that could be made into doors during the appropriate tax years.

Pat Conroy has a home here and wrote many of his books in this setting, one book is The Water is Wide.

We learned that many films were made in Beaufort including parts of “Forrest Gump,” “Prince of Tides” and one of our favorite movies, “The Big Chill.” The home used for the Big Chill here is known as the “Tidalholm” and was built in 1856. It is a private residence today but never-the-less I took a photo of the front and on the other side of the block of the back as best as I could.

Back of the house where the movie 'The Big Chill" was filmed.

Tom Hanks bought his chocolates that he ate in the movie “Forest Gump” while in the Chocolate Tree, Inc. located downtown before going to Savannah to film the scene. The park where he ate his box of chocolates was actually filmed in Chippewa Square, Savannah, as we wrote in the previous blog.

Here is a photo of the Beaufort Arsenal. Built in 1798 it was later rebuilt in 1852 and was the home of the Beaufort Volunteer Army during the Civil War.

We would definitely recommend Beaufort as a must stop for anyone passing through.
(And Charlie would definitely recommend the Chocolate Tree store from first hand experience as well.)

My highlight was my own stroll where I took photographs of my favorite sights while imagining I was back in history….

We left Beaufort after a delightful two day stay. My walk midday up the ramp (above) to check out the gift shop at the Ship's Store. Notice the steep angle from the dock to land . Extremely low ride.

One thing about the marinas in this part of the county, they have floating docks to accommodate the 8-9 foot changing tides. Boats tied up to floating docks do not have to have their lines constantly retied. But the people have to watch the ever changing angles of the ramps connected to the land as they walk up.

Well, as usual, I have rambled on. We have so much to tell. We would recommend this area of our country if you enjoy seeing where our country first started. This part of our country is where our roots began. St. Augustine, Florida, Savvanh, Beufort, South Carolina. Next stop, Charleston then Georgetown.

From the boating view, it has been awesome to see the sights from our country's waters edge, where our U.S. history all began!

Charlie says hi.

Hope you are all well.

Sincerely, Linda and Charlie

A look at Georgia's Intracoastal Waterway

Freedom’s Turn arrived at Two Way Fish Camp Marina on the Altamaha River just north of Brunswick, Georgia on April 12, Easter Day. Due to torrential rains coming on April 13-14, she would rest one extra day on top of the two day planned stay.

The swollen rivers and creeks produced very fast currents surrounding our marina and the Intracoastal Waterway in the area. Even within the slips in the marina, there was a current running 2-3 knots.

Debris collected everywhere. There is actually a crane in this photo!

Can you find it?

Charlie and I had visions of the flood of Grafton back in September along the Illinois River and shuttered to think we might be delayed again to the extent again of 12 days! only one extra day was needed, to our relief.

This occurrence was a normal thing to happen in this parts, according to a group of local fishermen who Charlie spoke to as we where preparing to leave at some point. The rivers and creeks that run out into the ICW in this area are responsible for nearly 1/3 of all of Georgia’s water drainage out to the sea. Naturally after heavy rains the abundant water moves powerfully and swiftly down to sea level and out to drain.

We had planned going to a marina in Savannah on the 14th however we changed our plan and rented a car and drove to the city instead. We picked the car up in Brunswick the night before we needed it and ate at a Golden Corral on our way home. The reason for mentioning this restaurant was the remarkable thing we saw in the restaurant. And I did not have my camera!

Inside the main entrance, there was a small table set for what appeared to be for one person. The table had a white tablecloth and a small U.S. flag was placed on the table top next to the plate; in honor of our country. There was red ribbon in a vase symbolizing the blood shed from war. Inside a single bud vase, one red rose lay on its side symbolizing the love of this missing military person fighting for our freedom. There was a small plate with salt sprinkled on it for tears, a lemon on it for the bitterness; the bitterness of war. And a down- turned glass for not knowing when this person (soldier) would be coming home to eat there.

What a strong statement demonstrating the love, honor and respect of those serving our country. We felt very moved after reading the sign and by the sight.

Darien, Georgia April 14, 9:00 a.m.

Along the way to Savannah, we stopped at the village of Darien because we spotted the town's barber shop. Charlie wanted to get a much over- due hair cut. There was one main downtown street lined with quaint shops and businesses that looked like the town was living in the past. This mural painting above was in the same building as the town's barber shop. It depicted the lumber industry here years ago and made an interesting statement about Darien's past. Today, shrimp is the area's main business, we were told by a long time resident.

I explored a side street while Charlie got his hair cut. I took a photo of vultures, up close and personal. They were the size of hen turkeys! On the same street further down, there was a colorful and fun looking restaurant called the Purple Pickle.

Savannah, Georgia April 14 10:30 a.m.

We took the advice from our fellow boaters and Charlie’s Georgian cousin Carol Thomas and took the trolley car in the city for a delightful 1.5 hour tour of the heart of Savannah’s historical district. For $25 apiece, it proved to be a wonderful way to get an overview of this beautiful, Southern city.

During our visit, Charlie and I took in all we could of Savannah’s abundant azaleas, large expansive live oaks draped with Spanish moss; beautifully preserved, stately old homes complete with ornate wrought iron gates and fences and lush flower gardens. Spring was in its glory with its fresh, sweet smell, I said to Charlie.

Founded in 1733 by British General James Oglethorpe, Savannah was the first city in the British colony of Georgia. General Oglethorpe is credited with the ingenious layout of the city. There are 23 public squares here, each centered within city blocks placed in a symmetrical grid. There are main streets paralleling the grids that end at the Savannah River.

Each square has a monument and statue of a statesman or soldier relating to both the Revolutionary and Civil Wars as well as detailed information to give the visitors. Below, Charlie stands in front of the statue of Sergeant William Jasper; a United States soldier honored here as a famous Revolutionary War Hero for rescuing prisoners of war from the British and bravely replacing the flag while under heavy enemy fire. Sergeant Jasper was mortally wounded a few hundred yards from this site.

This historical city is famous for many movies being filmed here including the Mercer House (1871) in Monterey Square where the movie “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” was filmed. The house was built by the grandfather of Savannahian songwriter Johnny Mercer but no Mercer ever lived here. Jim Williams, the main character in the movie, owned and lived in this house until his death in 1990.

The Mercer House

Chippewa Square (above) is the location for the scene where Tom Hanks as “Forrest Gump” sat in a park on a bench and ate candy out of his box of chocolates (‘life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get”) Just for the movie, a bench was placed in front of this statue of Major Jacob Jennings Brown for Tom Hanks. This photo is borrowed from my book 'Savannah Squares.' by Robert J. Hill II My photo did not turn out.

Charlie and I ate our lunch in a tea shop named Gryphons then walked around and inside this beautiful Catholic Cathedral of John the Baptist, founded in 1876. Among the breathtaking views, we noted the magnificent hand stenciled borders on the walls. One of the side altars still displayed its lovely Easter flowers.

This city is one we want to come back to someday.

After a great day in Savannah, which, by the way, the rain held off during our 5 hour visit, we dropped our rental car off back in Brunswick in a heavy down pour. Another passing through Darien and we were “home’ again on our boat to settle in and prepare to leave Two Way Fish Camp the next day. More of the marshy waters of the Intracoastal. We appreciated the hospitality of the marina here and even had a great hamburger at their restaurant named Mud Cat Charlie’s. Getting out of the slip the next morning took two extra men helping with the lines due to the current. This marina would be very doable during most days we would guess; however we were glad we did not get on the outside dock right on the river.

Our last night in Georgia, Freedom’s Turn slowed to a stop and drifted on the waters of an unmarked channel at mile marker 612 getting ready for her anchorage. It was near 5 p.m.

In his book, "Anchorages Along the Intracoastal," Skipper Bob names this little no name creek "Birthday Creek." It was a good anchorage with good holding.

This night became one of those great anchorage nights that every boater cherishes.

Being truly alone from the outside world, our minds emptied the the day’s details from our thoughts and we truly relaxed. The big open sky with its panoramic view was our visual backdrop as we enjoyed a happy hour filled to the brim with a oneness of nature and the scents of a new spring. We saw the new green marsh grasses coming through the mucky soil. From our chairs on the upper cockpit, we heard only the chirping of the spring insects. (And the slight shift of ice in our cooler below). Nature quiet is divine.

A beautiful sunset came and it was icing on the cake. But soon the no-see-ums came out like bitter tasting pepper on our sweet 'cake' so we went in for dinner, closed up the ship tight, and with our little fans on us, slept just fine to a gentle rocking side to side.

To quote Henry David Thoreau:

“To be calm to be serene – there is the calmness of the lake when there is not a breath of wind – there is the calmness of a stagnant ditch. So it is with us. Sometimes we are clarified & calmed healthily as we never were before in our lives – not by an opiate – but by some unconscious obedience to the all–just laws – so that we become like a still lake of purest crystal and without an effort our depths are revealed to ourselves. All the world goes by us & is reflected in our deeps. Such clarity! Obtained by such pure means! By simple living – by honestly of purpose – we live and rejoice.”

22 June, Journal 3:274-75

The next day would be Hilton Head Harbor Marina in South Carolina. Freedom’s Turn would be taking us to another state again. At this anchorage, on April 15, she had safely taken us 3,857 miles in 252 days.

We were living our best life that anchorage night. And so be it.

Sincerely,

Linda and Charlie