Friday, November 7, 2008

Cruising the Tennessee River Part 2

Butterfly on Linda's bike

Charlie on his bike at the Joe Wheeler Rendezvous, Alabama
Huntsville Space and Rocket Museum



Scarecrows at the Huntsville Botanical Gardens



Game day brownies- Victory over U of M


Happy Hour


Not so happy hour next morning



Anchoring all alone in a gorgeous cove



Following a friend going back down the river -Lookout Mountain in distance



Charlie on top of Lookout Mountain, Chattanooga, one mile above river



Pamphlet photo of the Tennessee Aquarium at the downtown Chattanooga riverfront



Rowing Regatta, Chattanooga


The photos above are mentioned within the blog text wherever you see an *.

Today is Friday, November 7 and we are back at Joe Wheeler State Park Marina in northwest Alabama after leaving our Looper rendezvous here on October 25.* We arrived back November 3 after cruising up the Tennessee River to Chattanooga, TN. It was 250 miles up and then 250 back down the river to get here again. We had a delightful three days of sightseeing in Chattanooga and seven beautiful cruising days; a side trip that was technically out of our way for heading south. But we had read all about this cruise as a “must see” part of the trip. Other than a rather expensive boat repair we encountered in the first few days, (more from Charlie on that) we are very glad we took the time to go with our friends on this beautiful and historical side trip.

If we would have had more time, we would have gone all the way up the river to Knoxville which is the beginning of the river, another 400 mile round trip. Since we lost about 10 days during the flood in Grafton, Illinois at the end of September, we need to keep on somewhat of a schedule so we will leave here tomorrow. Our next leg will take us to Mobile, Alabama and to the Gulf of Mexico. This next part should take 10 days to two weeks. Our goal now is to average enough miles each day (around 50) to get to somewhere around Ft. Meyers, Florida by mid December. We want to come home for Christmas for a visit with family and friends. Our primary goal, like all the other Loopers, is to always follow the good weather. Getting to the Gulf coast around Dec 1 means that the hurricane season is officially over (although there is a tropical storm in the Gulf as we write this!). We will winter in Florida; with a one month reservation at the Marina Del Mar in Key Largo from January 15 to February 15 and then and take a month side trip to the Bahamas. Then we hope to head north on the Atlantic Intercoastal Waterway around mid March.

I would like to include a note about Charlie’s sightseeing trip to Huntsville he took with other boaters the day before we left Joe Wheeler State Park on October 25. (I was feeling a little under the weather that day and did not join him) He toured the Space and Rocket Center, the Huntsville Botanical Gardens and the historic center of Huntsville.

The Space and Rocket Center is the focal point for tourists and students to visit as part of the Redstone Arsenal. The arsenal was first started after World War II as an area for the US missile program and later the space program was added. It was from here that German scientists were voluntarily (trying to avoid Soviet interests) brought to help the US missile program catch up to the level where the Germans were at, near the end of the war. The rocket and lunar landing programs were also housed at the Redstone Arsenal. A full scale replica of the space shuttle is also found here.*

The weather cleared enough in the afternoon for them to go to the Huntsville Botanical Garden; which is known as an oasis of peace, beauty and tranquility. At the time of Charlie’s visit, the center was featuring a scarecrow trail throughout the gardens.* He also enjoyed the Butterfly house there. It is the nation’s largest open air butterfly house.

On our way up the river, we stopped for one night at a marina in Decatur, AL. where we saw a grave marker and plaque at the edge of the parking lot. It represented the many Native Americans who were forced to leave their land in this area long ago during what is known historically as “The Trail of Tears.” It was here where we discovered their only restaurant –bar could get the MSU-Michigan football game! Watching MSU bring home a victory was a highlight of our week!*

The next night we tied up along side a free city dock in Gunthersville, AL with our group of six boats and enjoyed happy hour.* The next morning was not so happy. We hit something under the water at the dock with our propeller and had to leave the group. The boat propulsion system was vibrating heavily at near normal cruising speed, an indicator that the propeller was damaged. We were told by others that it would take 3-4 days to pull the boat out of the water, remove the prop have it fixed and get the boat back in the water. When Alred Marina, where the work was done, found out that we were a Looper and were trying to stay up with our traveling friends, they put in place a 24 hour repair job! * This involved Linda and I driving (1.75 hrs.) the prop to Chattanooga, TN (actually a small town near there called Soddy Daisy, love that name!), spending the night while the prop (fyi, 4 blade, 26 inch diameter with 1.75 inch diameter shaft and 65 pounds) was straightened and then returned to the boat. We caught up to our friends a day later. We had unbelievable help, hospitality and friendliness during this time. We also bought a spare prop to have on board in case this should happen again! Our boating friends said they have all been through this before at one time or another.

Back on the river and now traveling solo, we anchored in a beautiful, isolated cove and enjoyed an extended quiet time enjoying the view.*

Soon we began to see the famous Tennessee River Gorge about 20 miles before Chattanooga. Visitors flock here from all over the world (especially in the fall) to see the panoramic views of tree covered mountains and steep cliffs unspoiled with homes or industry. This river gorge, also known as the Grand Canyon of Tennessee, features ‘Lookout Mountain,’ the tallest peak in the gorge; coming up out of the water close to 2,000 feet.* As tall as the hills are, the river runs deep, following an ancient earthquake fault, reaching depths of 176 feet. Our depth usually averaged 50-70 feet which is still amazingly deep for a river.

I distinctly remember the day passing through this gorge area. It was a crisp, sunny day of 56 degrees. Bundled in four layers on top, I sat comfortably outside on the bow of the boat directly in the sun and took in everything all at once. I took photos while Charlie, at the upper helm, steered us around bend after bend. Being down at the lowest elevation when traveling in a boat, the views can be much more magnificent at times. Looking up and far, we took in the grand peak colors of autumn, spread out like a colorful blanket on the mountains as far as the eye could see. The sparkling waters flowed gently taking their time, with only boats seeming to change their surface. The abundance of the fresh, natural smell in the air, gave us the feeling that all of our senses had just filled to the brim! I remember thinking at the time that Henry David Thoreau would have approved of this experience.

Later that day on October 30, we arrived at one of the riverfront marinas in downtown
Chattanooga, where we joined our friends and settled in for a delightful three day visit.
After tying up, we walked up the riverbank from our slip and toured the Hunter Museum of American Art which is perched on an 80 ft bluff overlooking the river. The relatively new museum is mostly contemporary but has the distinction of being built around a Civil War mansion where they house their art from 1700-1850 in the mansion.

Twenty years of progressive thinking and $129 million dollars invested , the revamping of the downtown and it’s river front, and a solid partnership of city government and private investment, has made a thriving tourism in Chattanooga, known as the showcase of the Tennessee River. Today Chattanooga, according to the September 2008 issue of National Geographic’s Adventure magazine, is known as one of “America’s top 50 New Great Towns for living and playing.” This area is also unique because of the temperate climate creating a wonderful environment for the diverse 900 animal species; second only to mid China in the entire world.

On our first full day we took a one mile trip up Lookout Mountain on the Incline Railway; America’s steepest passenger railway. At the top we toured Point Park which is a National Park honoring the Civil War battle site “Battle Above the Clouds.*” Here on the top of Lookout Mountain, Union and Confederate armies totaling 150,000 clashed during the fall of 1863. The prize was Chattanooga, key rail center and gateway to the heart of the Confederate. This was a Union victory, a turning point for General Grant and an opening for General Sherman when later he used Chattanooga as his base for his march to Atlanta.. (Taken from a sightseeing pamphlet.)

Charlie visited the nationally acclaimed Tennessee aquarium on Friday afternoon also right on the riverfront. It features two buildings: one named “River Journey and other “Ocean Journey.”* That same evening, during "happy hour" with the other loopers, a yellow and black butterfly landed on Linda's bicycle* on Freedom's Turn. One of the other boaters pointed it out to Linda and she immediately circled in to get the perfect picture. After several different angles of pictures, she realized that the butterfly was a fake! This is quite a group, you have to watch your back all the time! They will also do anything for us!


Before we left Chattanooga on November 1, from our marina slip we watched the beginning of the 2008 “Head of the Hooch” Rowing Regatta! The kind of boats used here are known basically as sculling boats and the activity is basically known as “crewing.” Only second in size to another rowing regatta in Boston, this event draws rowing clubs from all over the United States; both from universities and private clubs. The theme was “Row for the Cure” and all monies collected from clubs and spectators go for the Susan B. Koman Foundation. When we left on Saturday, the race had started but all six boats in our group got out fine. It was quite a site to see, especially from our boat. *

We wished we could have done so much more but we needed to leave. Next time, maybe we’ll come by car. One place we want to come back to is the famous Terminal Station, home of the museum of the “Chattanooga Choo Choo.”

Thank you for reading this long blog. I can only imagine how much time you all need to take to read it. We try to be brief but we have so much to tell.

We’ll see you on down the river. The song “Take Me to the River” is playing in our heads. It is time to go.

Linda and Charlie