Friday, October 24, 2008

Cruising Up the Tennessee River- Part 1

Linda at the helm





A typical view of limestone cliffs, Tennessee






Getting ready to go up 93 feet in Wilson Lock, Alabama






Little Crooked Creek River inlet, Tennessee



Confederate battleground victory site, New Johnsonville, Tennessee

Cherry Hill Mansion view from our boat, Savannah, Tennessee



Back entrance of Cherry Hill traveling by car, Savannah, Tennessee




Union cemetery site at Shiloh, Savannah, Tennessee








We apologize for our delay in posting this blog. We are presently just outside of Chattanooga, TN (on a 400 mile side trip!) at anchor and will be there by noon tomorrow, Thursday, October 29th. We have been on the go every day and have had limited computer access as well. Then we finally got our entry finished, only to lose it before we saved it properly. Here we go again!

Leaving Green Turtle Bay Marina in Kentucky on October 5, Charlie and I cruised south on Kentucky Lake until it became the Tennessee River again. We traveled in a downpour that day where the rain was so heavy it looked like a blanket of fog and we used our navigation lights in the daylight for the first time. Three foot waves, which are not very common in this area, were easily handled by Freedom’s Turn! We all stayed two nights at a small, friendly marina named Pebble Isle, located in New Johnsonville, Tennessee. We’ll remember this marina because we were treated well and the morning we were leaving they gave us all (eight boats) free, freshly baked hot cinnamon rolls (from scratch no less) at their friendly harbormaster- restaurant-gift store building.

While there, we also enjoyed a lovely, two mile Autumn walk from the marina to the historically significant Johnsonville State Historic Park; our first Civil War site to visit on this trip. Here, on the banks of the Tennessee River, on November 3, 1863, a Confederate Calvary attacked and defeated a Federal Naval force; the only time ever recorded in all of US war history that a Calvary defeated a naval force. We walked through these woods close to the river and observed several marked spots where soldiers had fought and died. We were somber and felt humbled during this walk. We stumbled on a few family cemeteries as well; one was named the Crockett Cemetery. We wondered if these folks were any relation to Davy Crockett! When we read our river charts for this area earlier in the day, we had noticed that along these river banks there were several old family cemeteries.

I would like to point out that during this time we are going up the Tennessee River, we are geographically going south on a road map. That is because the Tennessee River begins in Knoxville, Tennessee and flows southwest and then north as it curls up towards the Land Between the Lakes in Kentucky and empties into the end of the Ohio River at Paducah, Kentucky. When one goes up river, one is returning to the beginning and when going down river, one is going toward the end of the river. When going up river, the red buoys will be on the right in most cases; as in the navigation rule “red right return.” That should explain why, in the photo of me piloting, (Which Charlie secretly took of me while I was giving him a break) that as we go up river, we have our red beanie baby on our right to help us remember!

Heading further up the Tennessee towards another anchorage, we were intrigued to see a stately old house on top of a river bank in Savannah, Tennessee. The house was Cherry Hill Mansion, built in 1830 by landowner and planter David Robinson. The house was a wedding gift to his daughter Sarah and her new husband W.H. Cherry. We first saw the home by boat, and then later, by courtesy car loaned from our marina, Grand Harbor, near Savannah, TN, we had the opportunity to go to it by land. We were interested to learn from our pamphlet that the walls are 18 inches thick and were built by slave labor with bricks made on the riverbank there. The historical significance is that this home was the southern headquarters of the Union Army under Major General U.S. Grant in 1862 which he occupied during the battle of Shiloh.

W.H. Cherry was sympathetic to the Union and thus granted permission for the Union to operate out of his home. Grant was eating breakfast here on April 6, 1862 when he heard the distant dull thud of artillery fire as Confederate forces suddenly attacked his army at nearby Shiloh. Cherry Hill Mansion became a hospital as well during the Battle of Shiloh where both sides came to be treated at the same time!

Besides seeing the mansion first by boat, we also passed the river banks where the Battle of Shiloh began. We continued our sightseeing of the Shiloh Military Park by car. The Union and Confederate soldiers plus the Union gunboats TYLER and LEXINGTON were involved. The battle of Shiloh was named after a church on the battlefield. We were fortunate to have an audio guide as we drove through this park which has 151 monuments, 217 cannons and more than 450 historic tablets on 4,000 acres. I quote from a cruising guide titled ‘The Tennessee River Cruising Guide’ written by Fred Meyers, “By the time the battle had ended, nearly 24,000 men were dead or dying. At such quickly named places as Bloody Pond, Hell’s Hollow and Hornet’s Nest, much innocence and enthusiasm was replaced by grim reality as those who had come to defend their cause discovered the horror of war.” This battle was a turning point for the Union because it permitted Grant to launch a relentless nine-month campaign to capture the so-called “fortress city of Vicksburg” and recover the Mississippi River. All casualties were buried in pits after the battle. Two years after the Civil war ended the US government reburied the Union casualties in individual graves; the Confederate casualties were left in the burial pits, a continuing sore point with our southern friends. The spoils of war, I guess.

On this same day in Savannah we found the Buford Pusser Museum home. Sheriff Pusser fought and defeated a grizzly bear but the most important thing about him is that he led a successful campaign against moonshiners, organized crime and prostitution in the mid 60’s. His unusual methods of law enforcement (he was known to have carried a big stick) made he and his wife targets of many assassination attempts which did take the life of his wife in 1967and left him scarred. He died in 1974 when his car went off the road and crashed. There have been four major motion movies made about him including “Walking Tall”. Citizens of this area of Savannah honor this famous man every year with a three day festival.

On October 16 we pulled into Joe Wheeler State Park in Rogersville, Alabama and settled into our marina slip for a ten day stay. By the way, that meant ten days of guaranteed laundry opportunities and hot showers, electricity and cable TV; wonderful things! Everyone on the docks had raccoons on their boats every night but lucky for us, they did not find anything to get into of ours. During that time, we attended our cruising association’s fall rendezvous ( we filled up the transient docks with our 65 boats), drove our friend’s, Warren and Debbie, truck round trip 1300 some miles home to see the MSU defeat against OSU, and visited with our good friends both in Alabama and at the game in East Lansing. Because we were only home very briefly, we apologize to everyone that we did not call or could not see. We especially wanted to see our girls but they were out of town, which was very much understood. While at Joe Wheeler, Charlie visited the city of Huntsville with other boaters where he saw the Space and Rocket Center, botanical gardens and many historical sites.

Currently we are heading up to Chattanooga for a 10 day side trip on the Tennessee River. The panoramic views of these river banks look like another Grand Canyon and are magnificent. One amazing thing we did was go through the Wilson Lock in Tennessee. The water there raised Freedom’s Turn up 93 feet, our second biggest lock we will have on the whole trip!

We will pick up here next time.

Sorry this is a long blog and long in writing. I will close and assure you we are safe and well and still happily living together! A special hello to my brothers Larry and John and their families, my sister Jennifer and her family, my mother Nancy, and to Charlie’s brother Bud and his family! We miss you and are trying to come up with a plan to come home at Christmas. We miss all of you very much!

Happy Halloween and Happy Fall,

Linda and Charlie





























Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Land Between the Lakes - Kentucky
















Today is Tuesday, October 14 and Charlie and I can't believe our trip has surpassed the two month mark already. Currently, we are cruising up the Tennessee River in northwest Alabama and are heading for a week's stay at Joe Wheeler State Park and Marina and then on to Chattanooga, TN. If you look on your road atlas, find the intersection of Alabama, Mississippi and Tennessee and go east just before Florence. We are not far from there. The park we are going to is located just east of Florence on Wheeler Lake.

Once we get to Joe Wheeler State Park, we look forward to several things planned. On Monday, October 20 through Thursday, October 23, we will be attending the annual fall rendezvous of our cruising association with an additional 60 some boats. There will be several sessions every morning and afternoon hosted by leading cruising authorities and authors of cruising guides and magazines in the park's lodge. All of our meals will be provided in the lodge but we will stay on our boat. The focus will be on navigation tips, rules and regulations from Joe Wheeler Park to Mobile, Alabama and then extensive sessions on Florida and the Bahamas. To see what is in store for us you can go to http://www.greatloop.com/ and click on the rendezvous information.

Before then, in the next day or two, we look forward to visiting our good friends Warren and Debbie who live about 20 miles from the Wheeler State Park on a farm (ranch!). Another thing planned is to drive home this coming weekend before the rendezvous to go to the Ohio State-MSU football game and tailgate with our other very good friends, Dave, Marcia, Jeff and Kathy, and then drive right back to the boat in Alabama! (Besides family, visiting with one's good friends tops all the activities a person can do, in our opinion! There is a saying that one's good friends become one's chosen family!) Did we mention that our nephew (actually second cousin) Patrick plays trumpet in "TGDBITWDL".

If I can, I'll go back to get everyone up to speed as of September 29. Freedom's Turn tied up at a transient dock that day for a one week stay at the Green Turtle Bay Marina in Grand Rivers, Kentucky; the town also known as the 'Village at the Land Between the Lakes.' This charming little tourist town is southeast about 20 driving miles from Paducah, Kentucky. It is noted for it's wonderful restaurant called Patti's 1880 Settlement Restaurant, the original landmark spot for the settlement of the area. They feature two pound pork chops so you know Charlie had to try one. I ordered the one pounder and we both had plenty to eat the next night as well. We "loopers" sure know how to spot the good food wherever we go.

The Tennessee and Cumberland Rivers run roughly parallel through western Kentucky. Both have had dams constructed near the village of Grand Rivers for flood control and power production. The Tennessee River was dammed to make Kentucky Lake and the Cumberland River to make Lake Barkley. A canal between the two lakes was dug at Grand Rivers, creating an island peninsula. The federal government purchased all of the land between the lakes from the canal on the north to US 79 in northern Tennessee to create "Land Between the Lakes," a 170,000 acre national recreation area. The entire area, both land and water is heavily used year round and offers a special beauty all it's own.

Green Turtle Bay Marina in Grand Rivers is a mecca for pleasure boaters to come to, meet up with and move on. Plentiful slips and services for boats and it's location near so many rivers and lakes makes it a very popular spot for "loopers" to come and recharge both their boats and themselves after the tough Mississippi River! There is a yacht club on the premises where they let transient boaters like us eat in their club restaurant, which we did. Boating is enjoyed year round here! The weather was beautiful the entire week and everywhere you looked you'd see the changing colors of Autumn. Every morning the ship's store up on a hill would play the National Anthem which was an inspiring way to start our day. The marina's several courtesy vans were available anytime to go into town for provisions or take a side trip to Paducah, Kentucky, which we did. Several of us had our picture taken at the marina's gazebo, in celebration of the "river rats" making it to Green Turtle. I asked the dock hand to take the picture with my camera and it is going to be published in a waterway guide magazine! After we posted it on the Great Loop web site, the publisher emailed Charlie to ask for permission to use it in his magazine! The photo of our boat in a slip is at Green Turtle also.

Other highlights of our visit to the area were going to Paducah, Kentucky, wonderful bike rides into town and I got my hair cut in Grand Rivers (very nice outcome to my delight). On our last night, a bunch of us went to the local playhouse and were wonderfully entertained with the play "Bus Stop," adapted from a movie from the 1950's starring Marilyn Monroe.

Paducah, Kentucky, was founded by General William Clark of Lewis and Clark. Legend has it that General Clark named the city in honor of the "Padouca" Indians, a subtribe of the Chicksaw, who lived and hunted in the area until Andrew Jackson purchased the lands between the Mississippi and Tennessee Rivers in 1818. The city prospered greatly with river commerce due to the great location at the site of the two rivers. We parked our van in the city's historical district downtown. Paducah has a wonderful long river flood wall with lovely hand painted murals to learn about the history of the area. There is the National Quilt Museum which brings hundreds of quilters and tourists alike from around the world into the city every April when they host their juried quilt show. It was Charlie's birthday that day and we, along with another couple who came with us, enjoyed a delicious dinner and free birthday dessert in a renovated 19th century warehouse restaurant called Max's.
Freedom's Turn left Green Turtle Bay on Monday, October 6 with five other boats to soon start cruising another river - the Tennessee. We eagerly awaited to tour Civil War battlegrounds at our next two marinas in New Johnsonville, Tennessee and near Savannah, Tennessee. The battlefields near Savannah are very famous. It is here where the battle of Shiloh took place; the biggest battle on the western front of the civil war in which there were 24,000 Union and Confederate casualties in just two days.

More on the Civil War history of this area in the next blog posting.

The biggest photo above is at anchorage in an area known as Panther Bay, just off of Kentucky Lake, after we left Green Turtle Bay heading up the Tennessee River. The map shows a bit of the area we have been talking about.

For now, hope all is well with you and yours.

Linda and Charlie

Go Green! Beat OSU!














































Thursday, October 2, 2008

Mississippi, Ohio, and Cumberland Rivers




























On Thursday, September 25, three trawlers and one tug boat left Alton to tackle a five day river trip together. There would be no true marinas along the following 310 miles of river systems. The days would get to be slow and long ( one hour of driving a car at 70 mph is like cruising in a boat for seven hours at 10mph! ) During those long hours the comaraderie of our fellow boaters developed into steadfast friendships.

The 'Mighty Mississippi' River didn't let us down with it's facts we had read and heard about. The muddy, swirling waters normally run fast at 3-4 knots to give boats an extra boost. The many other waterways entering into the Mississippi create extra turbulence to prepare for. Add the extra wake when a big towboat passes with a full load of 25 barges and you have cruising at a whole different level of awareness. We aways knew these upcoming days were going to be a part of the trip we signed up for!

The recent flood added another 3 knots plus the water truly looked like liquid, swirling mud. Later I would recall that whenever I tried to take a photo with a reflection of the land in the water, there was no sparkle or shine to the water. Just dull and poison looking. An abundance of turbulence from extra swollen water gave reason for a continual lookout for potentially submerged bouys. These red and green bouys were not in the right places on several occasions either. Many a time they had moved right next to each other. ( Boats need to follow these red and green markers on their river charts and stay between them within the proper channels.) Unfortunately on our third day, one of our boats did hit a submerged bouy and had to back away from us and get towed to Green Turtle Bay Marina, KY which is where we all ended up anyway. Fortunately, the boat being towed had the right boating insurance to cover it!

While traveling, we would set our alarm to wake up around 6 or 6:30 a.m., just before daylight. One of our friends would always get on the marine radio to give us our morning greeting: " Good morning kids, are we ready to go play?" He and his wife were a lot of fun and were a tremendous help informing us with the necessary information along the way because they had done this trip before a few years back.

The banks of the Mississippi River were fun to look at in spite of the drab water. On both sides there were plenty of forests and sandy shoals. It was easy to imagine the river tales of Mark Twain and others. We went past Chester, IL where Popeye the Sailor man was born, and Metropolis, IL, the town made famous by Superman.

We all read our river charts each mile of the way, communicating constantly on our marine radios; the leader of the day would call out a warning whenever he saw something to watch out for. The first boat heading out would be our cruising leader of the day. This leader would also radio the approaching towboats to politely ask which way we should pass. To give you an idea of the magnitude of the barges, it is estimated that one barge can hold the equivalent cargo of six or seven train cars full. The biggest towboat we have passed so far had 30 barges on it! By the way, a tug boat becomes a towboat when it has the barges attached.

We listened to these tow boat operators on their own radio channels with interest. They would chatter to each other with their thick southern drawls that sounded like they were speaking a foreign language. They talked about the currents, how they were going to pass each other, objects in the river and once in awhile we'd hear something about those idiot pleasure boaters. When we'd ask them how to pass, they would come back with either a one whistle pass (meaning he wanted us to pass him on his port (his left) side and a two whistle pass was to pass him on his starboard (or right side).

After anywhere from four to seven hours a day of being on the go we'd all settle in either on a free dock wall, an anchorage, or a lock wall. Once on the Ohio River we tied up to a cement lock cell right out on the open river! And at the end of the day, happy hour on someones boat was a must.

Our plan had us going through St Louis soon on the first day. It is a fascinating town to look at as you pass by, however, it is a very busy comercial port and you really have to be alert constantly. The recent flood caused this port to close for awhile and the closure was the first time in it's recorded history! We were thrilled to have Freedom's Turn's photo taken by one of our traveling boaters here! Charlie's friend Peter Bakker, who had visited us with his wife and mother-in-law earlier at Grafton, works very close to the Eads Bridge (the first bridge over this part of the Mississippi) and told us to give him a call and he would come and take a photo of us as we passed. We did and it was a thrill to know he was up there sharing in our excitement! Thank you Peter!

The first night we tied up to the Kaskaskia Free Lock wall. We joined two other boats here who would remain with us for the rest of the way. The next morning was eventful; first we saw a beautiful early morning sunrise, then as we left, an Asian carp (invasive species) hit our boat, jumped 4 feet in the air and landed inside our boat in the side well! We heard a load thud and thought for sure we hit a very bad thing. When Charlie could leave the helm, he posed for a photo to prove we really had the fish on board. Very messy to clean up. Not a great way to get fish!

The next night we stayed off the Mississippi in a small channel called Little River Diversion Canal. Peaceful anchorage by all. On to the Ohio River.

When Freedom's Turn saw the calm, sparkling blue-green waters of the Ohio River, I bet she was smiling. Charlie said he felt like he had gone from poison to purity. A photo we enclosed here shows the amazing color difference between the two rivers. That night our gang tied up to Federal concrete cells that were part of the partially completed (2013) Olmstead Lock and Dam. Normally this tie up would not have allowed for pleasure craft, but the lock is still being built and is nonfunctional at this time. As with any lock, it is mandatory that you call the lock master ahead for permission to tie up.

On our fourth day, we reached the Cumberland River and were now in Kentucky. We anchored in an area called the Cumberland Tow. The water was 81 degrees and Charlie jumped in for a swim! We saw our first glimpse of fall color and it was a delight to see. The air had more of a crisp feel and the temperature was dipping into the 70's. The thoughts of our Michigan autumn season came to our minds fast and strong.
On day 5 we saw an amazing thing. Perched on a large dead grove of trees, hundreds of Turkey Vultures watched us go by! On this day we geared up to go through the Barkley Lock, which raised us 67' up. This was the the last "event" before we ended this leg of our adventure because right around the corner was our meeting place for several of us loopers: a full serviced marina called Green Turtle Bay in Grand Rivers, Kentucky.

At the conclusion of this second main leg out of ten, we are grateful for three things: one: an awesome performance by Freedom's Turn, two: lots of rich American history learned, and three: thank goodness this blog is finished for today!
Charlie says hello as he reads and adds bits to this blog.
Hope all is well with you and yours,
Linda
































Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Preparing for the Mississippi River






Well, we finally made it to Kentucky, at Green Turtle Bay on the "Land Between the Lakes"! It is Charlie's birthday, October 1. We will be here at least until October 5th, a nice break. Time and Internet access are now available to update the blog. Below is the first part in how we got here after the flood cleared.

On our last day in Grafton, IL we hiked up a steep road in town and visited the Piasa Winery. Many years ago, the Illinois Indians of the region told the story of a monster bird that devoured man. Their word for this bird was"Piasa" (pronounced Pie-a-saw). The story of the bird has been handed down from generation to generation. Although we did not get to see the attraction later when we stayed in Alton, we read about a huge cliff painting of the Piasa bird that had been carved and painted on a cliff outside of town. Back at the winery, we enjoyed a glass of a locally made Pinot Grigio and observed the panoramic view of the convergence of the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers. We were about to leave our flood home of Grafton Marina to go down the Mississippi the very next day. Although we could not see the condition of the Mississippi River from up on that hilltop, we knew that the Coast Guard had just given the 'green light' to go for all pleasure boaters heading south.

We untied the lines of Freedom's Turn on Wednesday, September 24 and headed for the Alton marina; the other marina in the area with 12 stranded looper boats to our ten waiting to leave. Freedom's Turn was scheduled in the second wave of boats moving out of Alton. Along the way to Alton, Charlie and I finally got to see more of the magnificent cliffs we could only partially see from our Grafton slip. (See top photo) We ran this short 15 mile trip to Alton to meet up with three of those 12 boats and plan our strategy for leaving together the next day as river buddies traveling the Mighty Mississippi. As you can see by observing our attached hot tub photo, the strategy meeting went well! Charlie reported back to our friends at Grafton that the Mississippi River, with it's current moving us an additional 5-6 knots and debris definitely to watch out for, was doable.
It was here that Freedom's Turn experienced her first covered slip; being told ahead it had a clearance of 18 ft. We thought we were OK. Although we had calculated our overall height many times, it was impossible to know exactly until now what we cleared. We discovered we had about six inches to spare as we breathed a big sigh of relief. Before we left the town, we enjoyed a delicious meal in an Italian restaurant with our friend Linda from Etc. and then walked past the historical city square of the final senatorial debate of Abraham Lincoln and Stephen Douglas. This debate actually drew over 6,000 visitors in 1858. The men's statues are life-like and keep the famous series of debates frozen forever in time. Of course, the Republican won the election!

Four boats went to bed early that night for a 7 a.m. departure the next day; our first day of five on an expedition down the Mighty Mississippi, up the Ohio and up the Cumberland Rivers without marinas or towns.
Love to all,
Linda